LEATHER QUALITY, TYPES OF LEATHER, LEATHER CARE

LEATHER CARE

LEATHER TYPES

LEATHER QUALITY

Let's talk about leather quality. Good quality Leather Clothing always begins with the Leather itself. Your highest quality products will be made from Large pieces of Leather that have been graded for blemishes, thickness and uniformity of grain. Virtually all cowhide has blemishes. The severity and amount of blemishes determine what type of clothing it will be used for and for what price. The Products that are called Naked Leather are not treated with any sealant product which smoothes out and masks blemishes. This is why the products made with Naked Leather are so much more expensive, because they use a higher grade of leather with few blemishes. See below for Leather types.

Our suppliers were chosen based on the quality of leather, the quality of craftsmanship and price/value priority.

High Quality Leather results in higher prices. At Discount Leather Mart our prices are still Discounted even on the finest leather. We have compared the same or similar items in stores and on the web, but beware...other stores don't always sell what they say. We Do. We always can beat a store on price because we are web based.  Any other questions about Leather? Contact us by pressing the contact button..

A-Aniline-Also known as Natural, Pure, Naked, and Unprotected

These are Leathers that are colored with transparent dyestuff. This means you are able to see the actual surface grain markings. These Leathers have very little or no protective treaments applied to them.
Because these leathers do not rely on a Finish or sealer to smooth blemishes like in Protected Leather, the grade of the hide must be much better to produce a quality piece of clothing, hence, a higher price. The leather also is softer and more supple than Protected leather. It's "feel" is thicker even though it may be the same thickness as Protected Leathers.

P-Protected - Also known as Finished, Semi Aniline, Everyday, Pigmented and Painted

These Leathers have combined the best aspects of a natural product (Leather) and have utilized tannery technology to create a product that is more uniform in appearance and color. The leather is also sealed so that water or other liquids are less likely to stain and the apparel product is more easy to clean and maintain. Most leather clothing is made of this type of leather.


N-Nubuck - Also known as Chaps, Distressed, Bomber, and Suede

These are actually Aniline Leathers that the surface has been brushed, and have created a texture similar to velvet on Leather upholstery or fabric. Suede is the "flesh" side of a piece of Leather and NuBuck is an effect that is done to the grain side. Because NuBucks and Aniline Leathers are alike, it's sometimes hard to tell them apart. The quality of the hide, like a naked leather, is also of higher quality. These "brushed" fabrics look very good but can be harder to maintain and clean because of the velvet texture.

Patched Leather

Bascially small pieces of leather sewn together to create a large piece of leather fabric. Quality, Type and Grain of the Leather is unknown and grain is interrupted by stiches. Prices are usually much less and should be much less.

Split Leather, Top Grain Leathers and Flank Leather

TOP GRAIN

Often called Full Top Grain or Top Grain, this leather is the leather portion from the top of the hide where the hair was removed. The leather exhibits tiny bumps where the hair follicle used to be. This is the strongest, most supple leather and should be indicated whenever you purchase leather. 

SPLIT LEATHER

When a hide is removed from a cow or buffalo, the leather is very thick. In the processing of the leather, often the leather is split into two layers, the top grain layer and the underlying "split" layer. The split layer is not as strong or supple as the top grain layer and will have a smooth finish. Do not rely on smoothness  to determine the leather type though, because the leather can be run through presses to create a Top Grain Appearance. Split leather is much less expensive than Top Grain, and many of  the cheapest goods sold both in stores and on the web are made from pressed Split Leather that appears to look like top grain. The longevity is not as good as top grain. Our $48 chaps are made from Split Leather. This is the ONLY way to get chaps made for under $50.

FLANK LEATHER

Flank Leather comes from the belly portion of cow or buffalo. It is a weak, thin leather that even after removing the hair, does not appear to be top grain. You will see on certain jackets, a wrinkled texture to the leather. Normally this is flank leather. It is often used in jacket gussets because of it's thin flexible nature. If your overall jacket is made from Flank Leather, i.e. it appears wrinkled with lots of lines running in the texture, you do not have adequate protection. It is a medium weight leather best used to fill in gaps where protection is not needed.

I got this email from Marty Rudolph. We haven't tried it, but if you REALLY need your leathers cleaned, you might try this. We haven't tried it, so we won't take responsibility if anything happens. We have no reason to doubt it, but we haven't tried it.

From Marty
I have washed several leather jackets and pants many times over the years: think hein gerick and harley motorcycling leathers. these garments all had acetate linings for one garment: fill washer with tepid water with woolite added and stirred in. add garment and wash and rinse and spin gentle cycle. rinse and spin gentle cycle a second time ADDING SMALL AMOUNT OF VERY DILUTED LIQUID FABRIC SOFTNER TO 2nd RINSE WATER. place immediately into dryer with several big heavy towels for few minutes on gentle, only to get garment very warm to hot. then remove from dryer, shake, pull seams, shape garment and hang on heavy-duty wooden hanger to dry (NOT IN SUNSHINE-breezy porch in summer is ideal). it will take a few days to dry inside. shake, shape occasionally and garment will be as good as new and CLEAN.

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Most Leather for sale is either called Lambskin (Nappa), Cowhide, Buffalo or Pigskin (pig nappa). Cowhide and Buffalo are the heaviest leathers and are used exclusively in Motorcycle gear. Lambskin and pigskin are lighter, thinner leathers often used in pants and fashion jackets because it is more easily handled (not stiff) and lambskin normally has fewer blemishes and a more uniform grain than Buffalo or Cowhide making it more attractive for fashion clothing. It is not as tough as Buffalo or Cowhide though and probably will not wear or last as long.

Cowhide comes from standard beef or dairy cattle. The hides tend to be thick and strong. The grain is more uneven because of the size of the animal and the longevity in the environment. Cowhide is very abrasion resistant and stiff. It is an ideal leather for motorcycle wear due to it's abrasion resistance. When the hides are split, the bottom piece (not the top grain) of leather can be used to make motorcycle clothing for less costs than top grain. Split leather is not as durable or as supple as top grain leather. Normally, the top side of the grain (top grain or the side that the hair was on) is used for better clothes because of the pattern of the grain. At Discount Leather Mart, we recommend only the best leathers such as Top Grain, and Heavy weight items. Cowhide tends to be an expensive leather. The natural variations in leather patterns will let you know that  the leather is top grain. If it is the inner split and processed to look like top grain, the grain will be VERY uniform. Processed leather is often stamped to make a false grain. You can tell this by the uniformity of the grain. Good Top Grain Leather is uneven in pattern.

Buffalo: This is not your American Bison, but Water Buffalo. Almost all the goods made of leather sold in the US are produced in Asia, like Pakistan, India, China and other countries. Water Buffalo is an abundant resource used in these areas. Buffalo leather is very similar to cowhide. It tends to be stiffer, and is more abrasion resistant than cowhide.  Buffalo is an excellent leather and is used in many items we sell here at Discount Leather Mart, including Chaps, jackets and some pants.

Pigskin or Pig Nappa: Pig is a very common leather used for many items. The leather is very uniform, but tends to be thinner than most other leathers. When treated properly at the tannery, a very soft, thick Nappa is developed. Pigskin is a medium weight leather and really isn't fit for motorcycle jackets or protective clothing. Pigskin also tends to dry quickly and need to be rejuvinated fairly often with mink oil or other leather conditioners. Many sellers on Ebay and other websites list jackets as Cowhide, but send you Pigskin. Why? Because pigskin is Cheap and this is how they can charge such low prices. But remember, it is not a Protective leather and not recommended for Motorcycle riding. I've rubbed against a wall in a pigskin jacket and the leather tore and a hole resulted.

Leather is a very durable and forgiving material but there are some steps to keeping your leather in Tip-top Shape.

Purchasing zip-out lined garments allows you to easily clean the inner garment from sweat and odors without effecting the leather itself. For all leather items, follow the instructions included with the garment.  But in general, keep the following in mind:

1. Cleaning:

Don't Clean if you can avoid it. If you must, try mild soap and cold water with a sponge. Make sure to dry the leather promptly with a soft towel. Do not rub on one spot, this will create a non-uniform appearance. Then use a commercial leather moisturizing product (we like Mink Oil based) on sealed leather to remoisten and make supple again.

If you want a professional job, we recommend you take your item to a professional leather cleaner. They have the proper tools to clean and recondition leather to its utmost, but be warned that cleaners are inconsistent and your product may not look as good as it was.

Follow the instructions on the label for cleaning. Do not attempt to wash as a normal clothing item.

2. Care:

You may use a commercial leather Conditioning Product on your Clothes, but we recommend using OIL based products, not silicone. Your leather needs to be fed. Always follow instructions to avoid damage.

Avoid getting Leather overly Wet

Do not store in sunlight

Store in cool closet with low humidity. Never Store in a Closed Plastic Bag.

Fold or use Wooden or Broad Plastic Hangers for your leather.

Store and generally avoid Chemicals, Solvents and Paints

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